CZ-82 / 83 Disassembly & Assembly Instructions

Detailed Disassembly and Reassembly of the CZ m. 82 and the CZ-83 Pistol

(This is a reprint of a help file I found on line)

The CZ m. 82 and CZ-83 are very popular and inexpensive, but many of them come with a damaged powder-coat finish. To refinish the painted parts, it's necessary to almost completely disassemble the pistol. There are 55 parts, not including the magazine, and disassembly is a little scary because of the many parts and the tight-fitting pins. But it comes almost completely apart with only a screwdriver, a light hammer, and a couple of punches. Improvised punches can be made by filing flat the ends of nails. The two grip panel inserts (51), the barrel (12), barrel pin, trigger bar disconnector (24), trigger bar disconnector rivet (25), and the steel ball (22) need not be removed.

It's best to disassemble the m. 82/83 in a certain sequence. This worked for me:

Remove the magazine and clear the chamber. I hate it when I forget that part.

Grip screws and grips. Easy enough.

Slide. Pull down the front end of the trigger guard (it won't come down if the magazine is in place). Cock the hammer and pull the slide all the way back, up, and off the rear, and let the recoil spring pull the slide forward and off the barrel. The recoil spring slides off.

Firing pin. Press the firing pin (8) in to release the firing pin stop (10), and slide the stop down and out. Be careful; the spring will send the firing pin out smartly.

Extractor. The hole that contains the extractor pin (6) may be swaged at the bottom, inside the slide, thus the pin should go up, not down. Hold the extractor in and use a 1/16-inch punch to drive the extractor pin up and out. The extractor (5) and spring (7) will fall out.

Sights. Drive out the front sight roll pin (3) from either side, and tap out the front sight with a small punch. Drift out the rear sight from left to right.

Trigger guard. Push out the trigger guard pivot pin (39) and the trigger guard falls out.

Magazine release. Press the magazine catch (44) against a piece of wood to balance the pressure of the magazine catch spring (45) and slide out the magazine catch lever pin (47). The pin has a groove in it so you can pull it with the end of a punch. Now all the magazine catch parts (43, 44, 45, 46) fall out.

Slide stop. Drive out the trigger guard latch pin (40). Now the slide stop spring (42) falls out and the slide stop slides out. Note that the spring isn't shaped like in the diagram. It curves over the top of the trigger guard pin.

Safety. Drive out the pin (37); the safety comes off. Press the safety latch (35) in against its spring (36) and tip it out. The safety latch bears against the mysterious steel ball (22) which is swaged into the frame.

Disconnector. Pull out the pin (23) and the disconnector (19) comes out from the top.

Main spring plug. Press in the main spring plug (33) to balance the pressure of the main spring (32) and push out the pin (6). The main spring plug and main spring will come out; the main spring strut (31) doesn't come out yet.

Trigger. Drive out the trigger pivot pin (16) and wiggle the trigger down until the trigger bar pin (18) can be pushed out. Now the trigger (14), trigger spring (15), and trigger bar (17) come out. Pay attention to how the trigger spring fits into holes in the trigger bar and trigger.

Ejector. The frame may be swaged on both sides to retain the ejector pin (6). With any luck it will still be tight enough when you replace it, so drive it out. (It might have red paint on the ends to indicate the safety's "fire" position.) Pull out the ejector (20) and the automatic safety (21) that is held inside it on the ejector pin. Now you can see the hammer lever (28) and the sear (29).

Hammer pin. Push out the hammer pin (27). The hammer (26) and hammer lever (28) are now free to move around a bit to allow the sear some wiggle room; don't take them out just yet.

Sear. Pay attention to how the sear spring (30) bears down against the sear (29) and up against the automatic safety (21) that you already removed. Move the hammer all the way forward, pull out the sear pivot pin (23) and remove the sear (29). Now the hammer and hammer lever come out together, and the mainspring strut falls out.



Reassembly

 

At this point you have two choices:

1) Put the 48 parts in a paper bag, go to your local gunsmith, and tell him you have a "bag gun".

2) Put it back together.


Most of the reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, but there are some tricks.

Use the diagram to correctly orient the parts during reassembly. There are a few places where three parts must line up before a pin will go in--it helps to use a straight punch to line them up, and then slide in the pin from one side as you pull the punch out from the other.

Rear sight. Goes in easier from the right.

Extractor. Put the spring and extractor in place and install the pin from the top. Drive it in until it almost reaches the bottom surface inside the slide.

Hammer. Install the hammer strut, the hammer and hammer lever, but not the pin until after the sear is installed.

Sear. With the hammer forward, install the sear, sear spring, and sear pin. The sear comes up from underneath, and the bent end of the spring bears on the sear. Once you have all three parts in place, congratulate yourself. Then slide in the hammer pin with the small end on the left.

Ejector. Notice how the automatic safety fits under the ejector and turns on the ejector pin. (The automatic safety prevents the hammer from striking the firing pin unless the trigger is pulled.) Place the automatic safety inside the ejector, hold the pistol upside down, and push the ejector into place. With great skill and dexterity, line up the automatic safety and drive in the pin. Congratulate yourself again.

Trigger bar. Notice how the protrusion at the back end of the trigger bar fits up into the automatic safety. You'll have to pay attention to this as you assemble the trigger and trigger bar assembly. For now just put the trigger bar into its place.

Trigger. Position the trigger bar so the hole where it connects to the trigger is just visible below the frame. Arrange the trigger bar, trigger, and trigger spring, and slide in the trigger bar pin. Having done this, you're now a certified mechanical genius. Position the assembly in the frame and tap in the trigger pivot pin.

Disconnector. Orient the disconnector with the sloping side forward and hold it in with the pin.

Main spring and plug. Arrange the main spring strut so it engages with the hammer, slide in the spring, push in the main spring plug to balance the pressure of the main spring, and slide in the pin.

Safety. Put it together just like in the picture and pin it in place. Center the pin. The safety holds in both the sear pin and the disconnector pin.

Slide stop. Install the slide stop and its spring. Drive in the trigger guard latch pin, while paying attention to correct positioning of the spring over the top of the pin.

Magazine release. Orient the pieces as in the diagram; assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Slide in the pin (47) until it's just flush. If it goes in too far, it blocks the hole where the trigger guard pin (39) goes; you can stick a needle behind it and push it back.

Trigger guard. A space for the slide stop spring is milled out in the side of the trigger guard. The trigger guard holds the slide stop spring in its proper place against the inside of the frame. Be sure the slide stop spring is flat against the frame as you install the trigger guard so it doesn't get buggered.

It's back together. Test for function and congratulate yourself one last time!

Thanks to CZ-USA for the exploded diagram, and to Makarov.com for their excellent disassembly/assembly guide on the PM, which I shamelessly used as a model for this work.

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